Frequently Asked Questions
This page was compiled to assist those with answers to questions we are always asked on the phone - updated 4/25/2008.
To go straight to the FAQ section - Click Here!
** A few words regarding modifications. . . **
Modification of any machine, when done cleanly and correctly, is one of the best methods of gear personification. There are too many machines made currently that could use a little "kick."
I have found, through experience, that most contemporary musical instrument manufacturers no longer follow the old ideal of creating a fully reliable-bulletproof-die hard-whatever it takes so it doesn't fail-type of machine. Don't get me wrong, great instruments ARE being designed and manufactured but a dilemma exists when cost cutbacks are generated in order to manufacture a product in a competitive market. This results in a good machine instead of a "kick-ass" one (don't blame the engineers--blame the mucky-mucks upstairs). Therefore, the only way to actually bring a machine back up the level of what it was intended to be is through modification -- well, maybe -- read on...
There is a potential amount of great risk involved when applying modifications to electronic equipment. Seek professional advice when considering modifications to your instruments.
"Where there is gain--there is loss elsewhere..."
A true story: Imagine your amp (assuming it was designed correctly to begin with) as a perfectly balanced entity that has functioned for years with very little maintenance. You decide, after 12 years of reliability, that you want a new sound. So, you call Joe Tech (who by-the-way works out of his garage) and ask him about what can be done to make your amp sound different. He suggests: "...swap out the 6L6s for EL34s with just a little bias modification and adjustment--it will give your amp a British tone…" You figure ol' Joe knows what he's talking about so you tell him "cool, let's do it!" Later that week, you pay Joe what he wants, pick up your amp with it's new sound, plug it in, play a few notes and realize you love it! After 6 months of aural ecstasy, you notice that your amp is running a little hotter than normal. Not to worry, you call good ol' Joe and ask him if this is normal. He says "Yup." You continue to use it without a second thought. A year goes by and you notice that not only is a particular area of the amp getting REALLY hot but also there is a loss of power. You look in the back and see that the filaments aren't glowing as bright as they used to. You call Joe again and he doesn't remember the job but will charge you $45.00 to take a look at it. Now, your amp doesn't work at all and you decide to take it to FUTARA. The tech checks it out and tells you that the power transformer is dead and finding the original part is next to impossible.
What happened?
Why did the power transformer, a part that rarely acts up, fail?
Here is a situation that could have been avoided. It could be that good ol' Joe Tech didn't do his homework regarding the EL34 filament current requirements -- especially the newer production EL34s! A 6L6 filament will draw less current then that of an EL34. The result: The power transformer insulation broke down due to excessive heat causing shorted turns within it to develop over time.
Your "British tone" was a GAIN but the eventual deterioration of a critical part of your amp is a LOSS.
Unfortunately, there are individuals who take gear mods for granted -- These "hack-nicians" never think about machine longevity as a result of their creativity. Not all amps will react like this one but the potential for failure is always a factor. I have seen horrible and potentially hazardous mods done to equipment. Everything from bad/wrong wiring, epoxy-like super glue on components (is the mod THAT much of a secret?), atrocious solder re-work using plumbers solder, inferior quality components, incorrect component ratings and values, drilling on inappropriate areas of the chassis or enclosure, and the liberal use of electricians or duct tape.
There are so many factors to consider when attempting to modify anything. These factors are heat dissipation, proper component ratings, cleanliness, serviceability, environmental effects, longevity and reliability.
Proper modification, on any machine, is VERY important. In fact, my mod standards, in most cases, has sometimes made it next to impossible to complete and as a result, cannot be done on certain machines without a complete re-design. At that point, one should consider purchasing another product that would perform as needed. I have dedicated myself to design mods that will work -- forever! If I see that a problem could develop, I will always let you know FIRST before doing anything.
I believe that modification of any machine is essentially a slap-in-the-face to the engineer who was forced to "dumb-down" the design of a product you feel has inferior performance. As I have said before -- it isn't always the engineer’s fault, it's the corporate money machine executives that makes the rules. Always ask lots of questions when considering modifications. Some things to consider:
1. Cost of the mod verses cost of a new machine.
2. Longevity and Reliability.
3. Is the mod reversible?
4. How will the mod affect the value of the machine?
5. Can the mod be fixed by another tech if it is the cause of machine failure?
Thanks for reading!
-- Marty Futara - 2007
Q14: “Do I really have to replace my power supply capacitors? -- a tech told me I always have to -- even after a few years!”
Q15: “Some
tube dealer websites are selling preamp tubes with balanced sections. Do I really need this and what do you think?”
Q16: “Why do I get shocked when I play?”
Q17: “I blew a fuse on my amp and replaced the fuse with one out of my old car. The amp made a horrible noise then smoked or went out. What happened?”
Q18: “My tubes have a blue-ish glow. I was told by a tech at [a well known shop or website blog/forum] that they were going to fail. Is this true?”
Q19: “Which tubes do you like and dislike -- which do you prefer or recommend for most amps?”
Q20: “What do you think of the vacuum tubes distributed by GROOVE TUBES?”
Q21: “What amps do you like or like to work on and what should I look out for when buying an amp?
Q22: “I was told to replace all my preamp caps with orange drop types - what do you think?”
Q23: “I want to buy a new amp but I have no idea which one to get - do you have any tips?”
Q24: “I am only using one side of my solid-state power amplifier. I was told by a guy at [a nationally known major music store] that I need to put a load on the speaker output terminals so it won't burn up. Is this true?”
Q25: “What
does F.E.T. stand for and why should I care?”
Q26: “Series, Parallel, what is the difference?”
Q27: “What do you think about Torres Mods?”
Q1: “Your Website
looks pretty simple using cheesy bright colors. Why
is that? [UPDATE!]”
A1: Well, thanks for noticing! We need to use bright colors in order to appease those individuals suffering from a bad case of attention deficit syndrome. Keep checking back with us as the squeaky toys, shiny objects and sound effects will come at a later time. Also, our site is coded using simple HTML for the reason that there are still individuals all over the country (or world) still using really slow computers like a 486 running WIN 95 and a 56K modem. Therefore, this site is really for them. Anyway, what the heck are you complaining about as it did load ultra-quickly! If you want to check out something kinda cool for those of you that need more action on a website, check out the www.futara.net flash site. This has been a work in progress and is changing all the time. I do not know when it will be complete but it is fun to code!
A1.1: [UPDATE!!] We know you are asking: "What is up with the green!?!" Yes, we have gone GREEN!!! Not so much an environmental statement as my personal affinity to the old green screen CRT terminals of the 70's and 80's -- I wanted to use the cool VT100 font but not everyone has that as part of thier font arsinal so, Ariel will have to do for now. Come-on! It is cool -- admit it!!! Sorry no flash site (www.futara.net). Clicking on that link will take you to the same site. It is way to unreasonable and complicated to finish -- not everyone has a fast computer or internet connection so this site is currently in the middle of both - maybe... Enjoy!!
Q2: “Why
does it sometimes take you guys so long to complete repairs?”
A2: Three common reasons for this: First, we have a quicker turn-around than most service centers but we get bogged down as well so a definite turn-around time is never stated - only approximated. Second, we believe in repairing as much of the machine as possible using factory parts -- this could delay repairs but is well worth it in the end. Remember, quality of the work is far more important to us than just "banging it out." We want to see you again with a different instrument with a different problem -- not the same one with the same problem. Last, we have found that obtaining parts for older machines has become increasingly difficult. Research to find the correct part is always performed and with a little luck, we get it! ( - back to FAQ...)
Q3: “Can I use WD-40
to clean my pots (controls)?”
A3: NO!! Do not use WD-40, Gum-out carb cleaner, tuner cleaner from Radio Shack, linseed oil, BBQ sauce or anything else! We use Caig Labs DeoxIT Fader Lube solution. It was known as MCL (blue can) solution. ( - back to FAQ...)
Q4: “I broke or
cut off my ground (third prong) pin from my AC plug. Is this dangerous?”
A4: It could be… - depending on where and how you are using your instrument. Ground pins are there mainly for your protection against electrocution. Some machines (like tube amps and lighting equipment) are complete shock hazards whereas some (like digital keyboards) are less likely to be. I would have the AC plug replaced or just don't cut it off in the first place. ( - back to FAQ...)
Q5: “I have a TV - VCR
- DVD - Cassette Player – Microwave oven that needs repair. Will you fix it?”
A5: No. Throw it away and buy a new one. ( - back to FAQ...)
Q6: “The back of my amp
it shows 600W but it doesn't sound like it puts that much power out. Why
not?”
A6: The wattage rating shown near the power cord is what the machine consumes in order for it to function. Most of that power is dissipated into space as heat or other radiation. The rest of it is what you hear. It most likely dissipates 100 to 150 Watts of power at the load (speaker). ( - back to FAQ...)
Q7: “I just purchased a
large mixing console and I am having a lot of trouble getting it to work right.
The level meters aren't working, I can't get any sound through my aux sends,
there are way too many buttons to push and I have the attention span of a
3 year old. What should I do?”
A7: This question is one of the worst and I hear it from time to time so, this is my answer: Take some Ritalin and go ask your mom to read you the owners manual before you start bragging to unsuspecting corporate event promoters that you have a "way killer system." You really need to enlighten and educate yourself with a whole bunch of knowledge and experience to use a console with "way too many buttons to push." We get calls everyday from users with over-inflated egos (especially individuals suffering from a bad case of "console envy") who ask us common sense questions resulting in a complete waste of our time. !!!!!! READ YOUR OWNERS MANUAL !!!!!!
:::::: "No, unplug everything!" - Quote from a Mackie Console Service Manual -- (good advice!!) ( - back to FAQ...)
Q8: “Sometimes, you or
one of your technicians seem rude or a bit uninterested on the telephone.
Don't you want my business?”
A8: Yes! We always want new customers! Do not take our behavior personally as there are only four of us here and two answer the phone. You need to keep in mind that our shop is very busy and we do not have time to listen to personal anecdotes regarding your close encounter with [famous rock star] or his or her equipment or what concerts you have gigged at, who owned your amp before you, etc. We understand you want to "shoot the bull" and name drop but that cannot happen as there are other customers waiting to be assisted, other callers on the line, paperwork, UPS or FEDX dude, bottled water man, Blah blah blah... We are very "nuts and bolts" people. You are always welcome to call us so ask relevant questions and we will respond with answers. ( - back to FAQ...)
Q9: “My console is making noises and someone has told me that it needs to be cleaned. What do you think?”
A9: Hmmm.... Well, there are many answers to that one. First, not all consoles need any kind of "cleaning" -- the kind of "cleaning" people may think is "cleaning." The truth is there are more complex problems with mixing consoles than just opening it up and blowing it out. Yes, the front panel gets really dirty but you can dust it off with a soft bristle paint brush. That is easy!! When you have noise issues, that could be a combination of several failures or just one -- really, it depends on how old the mixer is and how it has been maintained. Second, some consoles, like modern consoles that do almost everything you probably don't need, cannot be "cleaned" -- in most cases, the pots within them cannot be lubricated and faders will not react the same even after lubrication - therefore, those machines are pretty much history or are just plain junk. We have great success when these parts are replaced. That is a proper repair than merely spraying lubricant all over everything and telling a client "yup, your console has been cleaned." The real problem is repair cost -- by replacing so many pots and faders, the cost of labor and parts sometimes exceed the cost of the unit. Last, the consoles I am referring to are usually the cheap ones sold at [a large retail music store] and cost under $2,500.00 -- WHAT? You say you paid $2,500.00 for a console and think it isn't "cheap?!?" -- Do you really think that you can offer professional sound reproduction services with one you purchased at [a large retail music store]? Well, if you think two grand is "a lot of money" for a console, you are in the wrong business my friend! Professional engineers and sound companies use consoles that cost as high (if not more) as $30,000 to $60,000 for used or new ones. Those consoles are the real deal and guess what -- they are easier to service, sound better, and last a heck-of-a lot longer too!!! The proportional cost of service on those machines is lower than the junk that is sold to consumers. You will NEVER EVER see the more expensive consoles at [a well known music retail store]. Remember, you will always GET what you pay for. ( - back to FAQ...)
Q10: “Why do you say
I shouldn't use [a popular brand of power tube] in my Mesa Boogie amp?”
A10: Mesa Amps have a fixed bias hence, it cannot be adjusted easily to accept any other manufacturers tubes. I have spoken with the service techs at Mesa and they say that it may be OK to use them but they may not perform as well -- PLUS, in order for Mesa amps to work with other tubes, the bias supply must be modified in order for users or techs to make the adjustment. Other factors like tube reliability as well as longevity - especially when they get the crap kicked out of them in "bold" and "solid-state" rectifier mode (dual and triple rectifier heads). We do not recommend installing anything other than what Mesa Boogie recommends for their amplifiers (I guess if you have to, a grade 4 to 6 will work). We install Mesa Boogie tubes in Mesa Boogie amps -- period -- no exceptions. ( - back to FAQ...)
Q11: “You seem to know
a lot about Fender amps. Did you work for the factory? Did you know Leo Fender?”
A11: I have knowledge and experience regarding the service and repair of Tweed, Brown, Blackface, CBS and contemporary Fender tube and solid-state amplifiers. As far as my knowledge of the Fender company and it's employees, I know very little about that. I never worked for the Fender company but did know a few people who did during the CBS years and they have some pretty funny and tragic stories about it. I had the pleasure of meeting Leo Fender twice: Once when I was 15 years old when he sold me a G&L guitar prototype for $100 out the front door of his office in 1981 (my father met him and George Fullerton as well!) and the other time was at the 1989 NAMM Show. I never knew the man but when I saw him again at NAMM, he was in a wheel chair and in his late seventies. He asked me (while I was checking out a Telecaster look-a-like) in a very soft voice if "I liked the guitar." I told him everything I loved about everything he had contributed to the world of electric instruments. That was a proud moment for me as that was the only opportunity I had to tell him how I really felt about G&L, Fender Guitars and Amplifiers. Sadly, he died in early 1991. ( - back to FAQ...)
Q12: “How long should
my tubes last?”
A12: The longevity of tubes depends on the tubes, amp, and how much you use it. For example : A set of 5881/6L6 (the good wafer base or WXT Russian ones) in an old Fender amp used 6 hours a week should last up to 2 years before they start to lose "liveliness" - if used everyday, about a year. A good set of Chinese 6L6 under the same conditions will last half as long. The bias setting on an amp will have an effect on tube life as well. Older Fenders are easy on tubes because their usually is plenty of negative voltage on the control grids while old Hi-Watt amps , or modified Marshalls, using EL34s, have a tendency to not have enough causing the them to run really hot - which, if you like that "British Tone," may not really be a bad thing! ( - back to FAQ...)
A13: Amp hum is one of those crazy demons that wont go away unless you exorcise it. Hum could be caused by several different things given there is no instrument, or instrument cable plugged into it: Hum could be "bucked out" easily by making a filament hum balance adjustment or as complicated as DC offset in various locations of the PCB due to leaky capacitors. The most common cause of hum is power supply capacitors (including bias supply). If they are old, they should be replaced. Old caps are made of basically wax paper and foil (not exactly but it works in this description). The dielectric material dries up and causes the caps to leak and not filter or pass AC like they are supposed to. In the bias circuit, problems with dry caps could cause hum for the reason that they cannot filter as well or will short to allow the voltage to on the grid to be closer to 0V. BAD!! This can cause the tubes to idle too high which depletes tube longevity. Grounding is usually never an issue (unless you have a ground loop) for the reason that reputable manufacturers tie all grounds to one point -- you need to watch out for "hack-nicians" that "do" modifications because they can create new problems which amplify hum by ignoring grounding points. ( - back to FAQ...)
Q14: “Do I really have to replace my power supply capacitors? -- a tech told me I always have to -- even after a few years!”
A14: No, not necessarily. We try to keep amplifiers as stock as possible but sometimes, parts need to be replaced -- we try to replace parts with anything close to what the manufacturer would have used if it is no longer available. For some amps, we use the American types unless a customer specifically states that he doesn't care what we use. Cap technology has come a long way and the old paper and foil types should be changed but not always. If your caps are leaking all over the place then replace them. If they look good and the amp performs well, leave them alone. If your amp was made in the later 70s, most likely, the caps are ok. Don't let some wise-ass technician talk you into replacing your power supply capacitors just because he says so. Ask him why it needs to be done (aside from lining his pocket with your cash) and watch him closely fumble for an answer. Remember, the more new parts are used in a vintage amp the less it stays a vintage amp - tone is affected as well!!! ( - back to FAQ...)
Q15: “Some tube dealer
websites are selling preamp tubes with balanced sections. Do I really need this and what do you think?”
A15: The whole "balanced triodes" or "balanced sections" thing seems really weird to me. It smacks of smelly fish in some way. It feels more like a marketing ploy to sell tubes at a higher cost. I can understand matched pairs or quads of power tubes as equal amounts of plate current through the output transformer has some credibility (really, tubes should be matched using the amp in which they are to be installed - transformer tolerance and all -- heh, heh...). If I owned a pair of Hi Fi tube mono block amplifier with ultra precise wire wound resistors, incredibly expensive super transparent sounding capacitors, precision wound transformers, blah, blah, blah -- can you see where I am going with this? In my opinion, only machines that are precision engineered with precision components would benefit from this. A stock 1965 Fender twin with 10% tolerance carbon composition resistors, crap capacitors (disc, blue or brown ones in the preamp), wire with a trace of resistance, a chassis that has no copper connecting ALL the ground points, age, etc... Don't get me wrong, a GREAT amp but a tolerance nightmare! -- I just do not see any benefit in this "balanced triode business." Who knows - it appears too much like voodoo to me... Be careful of snake oil vendors... ( - back to FAQ...)
Q16: “Why do I get shocked
when I play?”
A16: That could be a leaky polarity switch cap -- this could be dangerous for the reason that 120V AC is leaking through this cap onto the chassis making you a human electrical conductor. One of our customers, while using his amplifier, insisted that he continued to get shocked. He told us that he was not singing into any microphones or touching any other instruments. It was perplexing because musicians know that there could be a possibility of getting shocked while singing (lips touching the mic). The cause: he was bare-foot on a slap of wet concrete -- a perfect conductor to earth - ground - from the amp with its own ground taken from the AC line! ( - back to FAQ...)
Q17: “I blew a fuse
on my amp and replaced the fuse with one out of my old car. The amp
made a horrible noise then smoked or went out. What happened?”
A17: You may have done more damage by allowing more current into the circuits. If your amp blows a fuse, always replace it with one of the same value. If it blows again, Stop and GET IT CHECKED OUT !! Do not wrap foil around it or use a value other than the rating that is specified. You can purchase any fuse for most amps at Radio Shack or any other consumer electronics store like Fry's. ( - back to FAQ...)
Q18: “My tubes have a blue-ish glow. I was told by a tech at [a well known shop or website blog/forum] that they were going to fail. Is this true?”
A18: Shame on that tech! No, this is not necessarily true. The blue glow is caused by the excess impurities / other gasses left over after the tube has been exhausted. The blue could get brighter after years of use but that does not mean that it is going to fail. New-old stock American tubes are notorious for this and so are some brand new Russian tubes. ( - back to FAQ...)
Q19: “Which tubes do
you like and dislike -- which do you prefer or recommend for most amps?”
A19: That is a loaded question as I do business with several vendors and I wouldn't want to upset anyone regarding MY preference of vacuum tube. It really depends on what amp we are talking about. For example, for power tubes in CBS Fender amps, I like to use the RUBY STR series of chinese power tube for budget minded players that like a reliable tube that has great tone. On the other hand, I have been using the 5881 for most other Fenders. I like using MESA/Boogie 6BQ5s for virtually all lower power amps that require them because of their high reliability -- they are a little more expensive but really are better. For Marshalls with EL34s, I like the Electro-Harmonix Siemens psuedo-look-a-like. Finally, the Svetlana (REAL ONES - winged C type) 6550s for Ampeg SVT classics and IIs. As far as 12AX7s go, I use whatever I can get the best tone out of -- JJs, Rubys (china), Sovtek, older American and Yugos that do not squeel... The list goes on regarding what I like… -not all tubes sound the same so you need to sit down with a soda and check them out one by one (please be careful... there is high voltage present). ( - back to FAQ...)
Q20: “What do you think
of the vacuum tubes distributed by GROOVE TUBES?”
A20: No comment... ( - back to FAQ...)
Q21: “What amps do you like or like to work on and what should I look out for when buying an amp?
A21: As far as guitar amps are concerned, there are a bunch that I really like! I love the tone of a black face Fender Twin. The sound produced, with some minor tweeking (Hey! Good tweeking - OK?!?), and some great speakers, is just pure love! I also like an old Marshall JMP 50W. It brings back memories of the punk bands I really liked from England back, well... - a really long time ago! There was another one called a PLUSH amp. I had only repaired 2 in my entire career and I totally loved the tone of both those amps. Laney made a couple of amplifiers that were nice. I really liked the distortion channel - a cheesy amp, in my opinion, but some of them do sound pretty good -when they work. Mesa boogie made the Blue Angel and that one has got to be my absolute favorite Mesa amp. HIWATT made a 50 watt head called an L50 that has one of crappiest distortion channels but the clean channel turned all the way up sounded wonderful. All this being said... Really, every amp has a sound. That sound is relative to the listener. Buy what you think you like. Do not buy anything a salesperson tries to sell you. You decide what sounds good for you. Bring your instrument and try out some amps you have either heard or read about. This is my advice to you regarding amp or instrument purchasing. Check out the manufacturer to see what the warranty is like and how well they support the product. As of the beginning of 2007, I have decided to let go manufacturers that has shown little support for their products. The companies FUTARA supports are really great! Support is the #1 issue when buying any product. ( - back to FAQ...)
Q22: “I was told to
replace all my preamp caps with orange drop types - what do you think?”
A22: I like Orange Drops. They make good replacements for defective capacitors. BUT, there are better caps to use. So, depending on the sound you are looking for, consider asking us about alternatives before wanting capacitors replaced on your amp as tone is always affected - NOTE: Changing all your caps will drastically change the sound of your amp. ( - back to FAQ...)
Q23: “I want to buy
a new amp but I have no idea which one to get - do you have any tips?”
A23: The best tip I can give you is to always check out the manufacturer and their reputation for service. Some big and unmentionable manufacturers really do stick it to customers by not fully supporting their products. Our company represents only certain manufacturers that REALLY do care about the product and support it well. It helps our company do more efficient service when we have the manufacturers backing us. ( - back to FAQ...)
Q24: “I am only using
one side of my solid-state power amplifier. I was told by a guy at [a
nationally known major music store] that I need to put a load on the speaker
output terminals so it won't burn up. Is this true?”
A24: No! Solid-state amps like infinite impedances as opposed to very low ones. Tube amps like very low impedances as opposed to infinite ones. ( - back to FAQ...)
Q25: “What does F.E.T.
stand for and why should I care?”
A25: Field Effect Transistor. FETs are warmer sounding than Bi-polar transistors as they function alot like triodes – that is why you should care. ( - back to FAQ...)
Q26: “Series, Parallel, what is the difference?”
A26: This is important so pay attention! Speaker/amp relationships need compatibility. Series circuits allow for only one path for current whereas, parallel circuits allow for two or more paths. Series circuits are the sum of the impedances of the loads and parallel circuits are the reciprocal of the sum of the reciprocal of each of the loads (try that one on your calculator!) So what, right?
To make it easy to understand : Two, 8 ohm speakers, in series (jack hot to (+1), (-1) to (+2), (-2) to jack cold or ground), will give you a total of 16 ohms. 8 + 8 = 16 - get it? Two, 8 ohm speakers, in parallel, (jack hot to (+1) to (+2), jack cold or ground to (-1) to (-2)), will give you a total of 4 ohms or 1/[(1/8)+(1/8)]. ( - back to FAQ...)
Q27: “What do
you think about Torres Mods?”
A27: I really don't know much about "Torres Mods." I do know that a client of mine brought in a Vibro Champ amplifier and hired me to install the Torres Tweed Mod in it. I must admit, it is a good mod but really, it isn't much of a mod as it is a complete change-over of parts. I believe it is for the better of the amp if you are into "Tweedy-Type Tones" like I am. I liked it so much that I installed it in my Champ and now it is very useful in the studio (good break-up!). ( - back to FAQ...)
A28: It is usually one or a combination of failures that cause a piece of equipment to quit. Following are what I believe are the top 5 reasons why amps fail.
1. Bad tubes: Sometimes an amp will go a few years without the owner changing any tubes. So, just like tires on a car, they wear out and then blow! Change your tubes at least once a year if you play about 10 hours a week on them. This is cheap insurance.
2. Wrong speaker cables: Both solid state amps and tube amps do not function well with instrument cables used as speaker cables. The amp cannot deliver the current needed to drive a speaker with a tiny instrument cable hence, the power amp is stressed and will get too hot and fail! Get the fattest, thickest, speaker cable you can get for greater power efficiency.
3. Abuse: Too many musicians still feel that the only way an amp will sound good is to turn the bad boy up as loud as it will go. OK! I agree to a point... Not all amps react like an old Marshall 50W JMP. In fact, alot of new contemporary amps will blow if you turn every knob up - not to mention the speaker! Also, liquid spills, rough handling, kicking it during performance, the list goes on... All bad! ( - back to FAQ...)
3. Lent to a friend: Are we suckers or what! "Hey dude, can I use your rig for a show tonight?" What do we usually say -- "sure..." Then it happens - the amp dies and your friend gives you that "I don't know what happened look"! ( - back to FAQ...)
3. Neglect: So, you packed it in - threw in the towel - decided to get a real job and have a family. Now, you're 40 and the boys want to get the band back together and you decide to bring the old Marshall JMP or 800 out again. What? It doesn't work or won't work right!?! How about you leave your brand new American car in the garage for about 25 years and see if it starts (no cheating by putting a new battery in it first)! ( - back to FAQ...)
FUTARA Electronics Company
(714) 535-6201
Write us with your questions or comments !!
service@futara.com